"Even though Kristen hadn't touched a surfboard in years, she looked as though she had never stopped. She inspired us all. But Kristen wasn't always up... > Lire la suite
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"Even though Kristen hadn't touched a surfboard in years, she looked as though she had never stopped. She inspired us all. But Kristen wasn't always up for it ; her body had its limits." Told in a series of alternating chapters, Aj Dungo delves into the origins and evolution of surf by looking back at the sport's greatest heroes ; while reflecting on his own personal narrative of love, loss, and the solace of surfing.
Aj Dungo is an illustrator living in Los Angeles. He studied at the Artcenter College of Design. When he isn't working, you can find him in the water or sitting in a parking lot, eyeing a freshly-painted curb.